There are many ways of celebrating your birthday. Some people choose to travel. Some people choose to ignore it. Some people take a day off. Some of them like adrenaline and do something like a bungee jump.

To the last group I recommend an activity that gives you more adrenaline than anything else: a visit to a Chinese dentist.

I love visiting dentists as much as everybody else. When the dentist can't speak any language that I understand, the visit becomes simply terrifying. That is why I felt so happy when I broke my tooth last Saturday.

A friend took me to talk to a dentist who works just around the corner from their house (where the accident happened). He said that it is not a big deal, but I should see a doctor as soon as possible.

As soon as possible was on Monday. Monday was my birthday, however I decided to deal with it in the morning and get it over and done with. I would have classes in the afternoon, then come back home and prepare a party.

Oh naïve lao wei. That could never happen.

The university officer, Tony, took me to the most remote hospital in the city by his car. He explained that because it is impossible to get there by bus, there are almost no people there. He dropped me off, told me that he is busy and left me.

I was sitting there and reading my kindle patiently. Then a patient came, sat next to me and lit up a smoke. Nobody reacted, here smoking in hospitals is normal.

I moved and sat next to a man who put up his feet on a nearby chair. Also very hygienic.

Finally the nurse called me in. Her boyfriend could speak English and she called him to come and help. We waited for a while and then he arrived.

He was talking to the nurse, talking to the doctor, guiding me. Translating instructions, translating what the doctor said. Explaining in detail what is going to happen to my tooth, choosing materials with me, making sure I will not get a silver tooth. After all this effort, when we were parting, I said “thank you” and he said “no no no no no no no,” which means that I shouldn't thank him at all.

The only thing he associated Poland with was our pathetic football team and he was almost rolling on the ground with laughter that we can't find eleven players to win with the Chinese team that is already terrible. I am quite sick of being ashamed of the Polish football team. The only good thing about it is that I told this story in class and made the students laugh.

The doctor put some medicine inside my tooth and told me to come back in the afternoon. The next day he was busy, so I couldn't put it off.

I called Tony to ask if he is going to pick me up from this remote hospital. He said no, he was having lunch. Then I asked if he was going to take me there again in the afternoon. He replied: “Yes, I will take you this time, but foreign teachers usually go to hospitals alone. I suggest that next time you go alone.”

Well thank you!

I thought that assisting me is Tony's job. Until now I'm not sure if it really is.

I had time for a quick snack before class. My colleague visited me and gave me a scarf for my birthday. We spent time discussing if taking us to hospitals is Tony's job or not. I sent Tony a text saying that I'm going alone in the afternoon thank you very much. At school I knocked at his office door to make sure he got the message. He was all apologetic and said of course I am going to take you, don't go alone.

Had a class. Went back to the hospital. It was already 4 pm and cold. I waited and waited, starved and tired. The doctor finally saw me. I was sitting there just wishing it to be over. While drilling my tooth, the doctor was:

-chatting with a patient who came to ask him questions;

-chatting with a nurse who came to give him some brochures;

-talking to a nurse who came to ask him something.

And it was also normal. I admire his dexterity, if I were in his place, I would drill the patient's eye instead of tooth. Moreover, some patients thought that the insides of my mouth is very interesting and leaned over me to have a look. Nothing wrong with that either apparently.

They made a model of my tooth and took my mobile phone number. They are supposed to call me when it's ready and make an appointment. Until now I get nervous when my mobile rings, I'm so scared that it's the nurse who wants to talk to me in Chinese. They haven't made the tooth yet though.

We went downstairs to pay. Yes, in China there is no free health care. They told me that the insurance doesn't cover the new tooth. I thought they were kidding me and called Tony, only to learn that they were right. Since then Tony has tried to explain to me how the insurance works fruitlessly. I think it is his way of making up for his behaviour.

Came back, it was already 6 pm. My colleague, married to a Chinese girl, texted me that his mother-in-law found out about my birthday spent at the dentist's and cooked a soup for me. I found it hanging for my doorknob. I was so starving that I ate it in a second and I'm still moved by their kindness.

I had one hour to prepare the dinner, just enough time to cook pasta and a soup. Every dinner consists of a soup and then something solid, every Polish person knows that.

My colleagues came and I had a lovely dinner. I added too much pepper into the soup and nobody in Poland would touch that, but in China it was just spicy enough. Plus, it's cold, and pepper is yang. I had a beautiful piece of meat, but no time to prepare it. Susan brought wine and we could drink a birthday toast. We stayed up late and I had a very good time.

After the guests left it was already late. I opened my laptop and read all the wonderful birthday wishes.

Then I dropped dead. Next day had classes at 8 am.

All in all, the next anniversary of my coming to the world surprised me in peculiar circumstances: I'm obviously getting older and losing teeth, but also feeling more confident about the reality. Even in distant and cold China there are people to visit you, care, bring you wine, new earrings and cook a warm soup for you. If there is hope for humankind, it is this one.




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